Chef Sau, Pig & Pints’ Bong Sagmit team up for 9-course Pampanga dinner

Chefs Sau Del Rosario and Bong Sagmit collaborate in the
kitchen for this special dinner. Jeeves de
Veyra 

ANGELES CITY — 25 Seeds, the farm-to-table restaurant of
celebrity chef Sau Del Rosario, is pushing the culinary
envelope further with a field-to-table nine-course dinner
dubbed Bulung. 

A collaboration between Del Rosario and chef Bong Sagmit of
Pigs & Pints and BBQ & Company, this one-of-a-kind dinner takes
foraged ingredients from around the mountains, plains, and
backyards of Pampanga and turns them into the basis of
exquisitely plated dishes. 

“When we talk about food, he [Sagmit] talked about a lot of
ingredients that I didn’t know about, so I became curious. In
our organization, we’re adamant about promoting Kapampangan
food, at the same time, safeguarding our traditions, and then
wanting to bring back those all recipes. We start of by looking
back and tracing the food prints. We started to talk to the
lolas, we started foraging local ingredients,” explained Del
Rosario of their collaboration. 

Some of the foraged ingredients used in the special dinner.
Jeeves de Veyra

Why is it called Bulung? Del Rosario said the word “bulung” has
two meanings — it can mean “leaf” and it can mean
“whisper.” 

“Gusto ko maging bida ‘yung mga leaves,” he said. “We should
spread the word for these indigenous ingredients. It’s
important to show the people how important it is to have these
plants, and grow them in your backyard.”

Bulung was a dinner of fusion, especially in terms of styles.
Del Rosario’s background is French and classical, and his
flavors are deeply rooted in the traditional tastes of Pampanga
— rich and luxurious. Sagmit, on the other hand, has a more
modern cooking style, showing ease in using molecular
gastronomy techniques, with a multi-component-ed approach to
the creation of his dishes. 

Both being members of Kulinaria Pampanga, one would think that
they would go the Filipino/Kapampangan food route, but instead
they opted to create dishes that highlighted ingredients,
without limiting themselves in terms of cuisine. 

“We don’t want to restrict ourselves. We still want to be
Kapampangan. We still want to be rooted in Kapampangan
heritage. But we want to break out in the sense that when it
comes to techniques and profiles, it’s borderless… just like
food,” Sagmit said. 

Chefs Sau Del Rosario and Bong Sagmit present the entire
kitchen team to the guests. Jeeves de Veyra

Together, they created a unique dining experience, perhaps the
first of its kind in our country. And as foraging is a
celebrated trend abroad with many Michelin starred chefs
turning to this practice for inspiration, it’s exciting to know
that the culinary minds in the Philippines aren’t far
behind.
 
With Bulung pop-up dinners set happen soon, here’s a peek at
what we had during our Bulung dinner: 

Fresh and juicy Aklan oysters served in a half shell.
This was a refreshing course, all the accompaniments
served to heighten the freshness of the oysters. A
tabon-tabon vinaigrette added a fruity acidity, balanced
with a sweet guava granita, with dehydrated ashitaba
adding earthiness Jeeves de Veyra

One of our favorites during this dinner. A coconut shell
container comes to the table under a dome of guava smoke.
Inside is a mix of ingredients — a sous vide egg, some
cacao nibs, paco, dehydrated mushrooms, greens like
pusa-pusa and ashitaba, and even a brown butter “soil,”
bound together with a splash of batuan vinegar. Break the
yolk and mix it in, and when you take a bite—you get a
taste that’s unique and strangely satisfying. It’s rich
in the mouth because of the yolk, multi-textured because
of the soil, fresh and herbaceous because of the greens,
and in the end—you get a hint of chocolate/cacao. This
author found herself taking more and more bites to
understand its appeal, until I realized that I’ve
finished the whole shell. Jeeves de Veyra

This dish made me understand why older people find
chewing betel an enjoyable pastime. Who wouldn’t want to
put betel leaves in their mouth after this dish? Sublime
and delicious, this course was this author’s hands-down
favorite — a perfectly seared scallop with a sweet and
spicy lemon grass chili salsa, toasted coconut, pili nut,
and some nasturtium (edible flowers) is the filling for a
betel “cigar” that you roll up and put in your mouth.
Sweet, luscious, and nutty, the betel grounded the dish
with a stronger arugula-like nutty bitterness.
Jeeves de Veyra

Ulang, this glorious crustacean, found its perfect match
in a puree of ripe and green papaya with a sauce of
coconut cream. Papaya added a fruity sweetness to the
palate, that accentuated the natural sweetness and
richness of the ulang, with the Chinese malunggay adding
a sour component to the dish. Jeeves de
Veyra

Simple. This grilled mackerel dish hid some nice
surprises, like the paper thin and sweet candied
bougainvillea petals (a brilliant delicious invention)
and dehydrated pumpkin, eaten with bites of salt and
umami from the aros-arosep, and acidity form a dalayap
banana vinegar. Jeeves de Veyra

A fork-tender cube of etag pork (preserved meat from
Sagada) was cooked wrapped in avocado leaves, and served
with a alibangbang consommé poured table-side. This is
the chefs’ version of “sinigang.” Etag didn’t pull
punches in terms of flavor, salty and distinct.
Jeeves de Veyra

One of the most striking plates of the evening, leaves of
cadena de amor join a slice of sous-vide duck sitting on
a sweet potato puree and a romaine hearts duck jus. What
makes this dish sing is the addition of carissa berries
and mulberries, with their sweetness and acidity
complementing the duck flavors. Jeeves de
Veyra

According to the chefs, this was their interpretation of
“pochero.” It has all the components in one bite – an
annatto-tinged deep-red beef sauce, with
melt-in-your-mouth beef topped with a banana puree and
ternatea (blue pea) petals, with leaves of sautéed
brussell sprouts. Heavy and rich, it was the perfect size
for a filling bite to end the savory part of this meal.
Jeeves de Veyra

There are two components to this dish—a luscious
sampaguita scented tibok-tibok (carabao’s milk pudding)
with dalayap, coconut cream, and jackfruit puree,
garnished with stevia leaf in a jar, and half of a
grilled senorita banana with cinnamon. Whether you take a
bite separately of each, or take a bite with both
components, you will be satisfied. The tibok-tibok was
deliriously creamy, and the grilled banana sweet and
beautiful. Jeeves de Veyra

Be the first to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.


*


This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.